Ecuador Redux

I booked a 4-day cruise on the Grand Majestic through Galapagos Islands tour company. l can highly recommend both the ship and the tour company. I spent almost as much time researching boats, cruises, and tour companies as I did on the cruise. Save yourself some time and just go directly to these sites.

I was planning on writing a very lengthy review of my cruise, but I found this blog while checking links to include. It states exactly how I feel about visiting and cruising around the Galapagos. Click and read this to decide if you might feel the same way.
If you decide to go, definitely go on a small yacht or catamaran. Do NOT go on a large ship that has more than 10 cabins. You will have all the amenities you want on a cruise yacht and not have to deal with the hassles of unloading and traipsing on the hikes with more people. There were about 9 of us on this tour and it was perfect - no wasted time, no crowds and still enough people to find varied conversations and not be stuck with only those who are occasionally annoying.
So that I have more personal info and pictures to look back on when I am really old and sitting in my recliner, here are some sentences and photos.

The Grand Majestic is a good little cruise yacht with only 8 cabins including a master suite. The crew is excellent and very helpful. Of course, the guide is bilingual, but most of the other crew spoke only Spanish. Some spoke almost as much English as I do Spanish. Regardless, they are always friendly and communicative.
The indoor lounge could accommodate all of us.

Snacks and Beverages Are Always Available but pay for your booze

There was enough outdoor space for good weather.

Ah! The Sunshine

I was requested to check out of my hostal by 10 AM but we were not to meet for the cruise until 1 PM. As I was walking along the Malecon, I saw some crew with Grand Majestic logos on their shirts. They lived on San Cristobal and were switching with the fresh crew. They called out to the yacht and the new crew came to the dock to pick me up so that I could wait on the yacht until it was time to meet the rest of the passengers. Most of them were on the plane that arrived that day.

Town As Seen from the Grand Majestic

When we met the remaining passengers on the dock, we took a bus to El Junco Lagoon, the same place where the taxi took me a few days ago and everyone was doubtful when I declined to walk in the rain with them because I said my cruise had this spot on the itinerary.

Misty Walk to the Lagoon

Usual View of El Junco Lagoon

The Cloud Lifted Just for Us

After our guided walk, we had time to visit the town. As I had had four days to visit the town, I enjoyed some adult beverages instead.
We then loaded into our two inflatable dinghies and boarded the Grand Majestic.

Golden Mount As the Sun Slides West

This golden mountain was definitely a sight to see - The setting sun reflected on the mountain; one could only see this view from a boat in the bay. I thought this was Mount Azul, but my research tells me that is on Isabella Island and I can't seem to locate the name for this one - at least in the amount of time I want to spend trying to correct my memory.

Sunset from the Grand Majestic

We Enjoy Our First Dinner

Night View of Town from the Grand Majestic

It was time for me to turn in.

Room Size Is Fine for a Single

A Couple Could Also Be Comfortable

The yacht travels at night allowing the day to be spent enjoying excursions.
Note: the yacht rocks all night long as it travels through the waters. I loved the motion, but it seems to bother others. Also makes it difficult to get to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

After breakfast, we took the dinghy to Post Office Bay on Floreana Island. (This link provides info on the Wittmers and the settling of Floreana if you can't read the book.)

We finally found the only maildrop not only in the Galapagos but all of Ecuador.
As it was done historically, you can drop mail in the barrel. When a ship came along, it would pick up any letters that were addressed to the direction it was headed. The boat would also drop off any mail or supplies that were for Floreana. Wittmer's book includes several passages about the delights received.

I dropped 8 postcards in the barrel and retrieved two addressed to Denver. I requested on my postcards to let me know if/when the postcard is received. So far, I have not heard from 7! I did receive in the mail the one I addressed to my condo even though the idea is to deliver them in person.

Here's the Story

The Historic Postal Drop

Marcos Plays the Postmaster Role

After we mailed our postcards, we took a brief walk along the beach.

Marcos Tells About the Sea Turtle Shell

A Pile to Explain

All the Guides Leave Findings to Explain

I was remembering we saw a blue-footed bobby but in this photo it doesn't look as if this bird has blue feet! I am thinking we saw an albatross!

What Is This

Whatever It Has Quite a Wingspan

I Just Thought This Was Interesting

I Just Thought This Was Pretty

View from the Beach

Another View

This was our first opportunity to snorkel.

I Donned the Gear

Others Were More Experienced

The tide was very low. I could not get over the rocky beach into deep enough water. Even the experienced snorkelers were a bit upset about the conditions!
That afternoon, we had another opportunity to snorkel. We dropped off the side of the dinghy into deep water. I tried. As soon as I dropped in, seawater flooded into my snorkel and I didn't know what to do as I felt as if I were dropping into the bottom of the sea. As I surfaced, I shouted, "I don't want to do this!"
They pushed and pulled me up the ladder on the side of the dinghy and I enjoyed watching the others from the dinghy. Several others soon scrambled back into the dinghy also because the current was so strong.
All in all, we still enjoyed the day's excursions.

Every Evening an Interesting Presentation

Sunset Day 2

Dinner Day 2

The food was varied and presented in a very attractive and appealing way. Although others raved, I found it a little tasteless and not hot enough - but I certainly did not complain.

Wake at Night

The third day was filled with activity.
Right after breakfast, we headed to Espanola Island for a landing at Suarez Point.

We Tred Lightly Through the Sleeping Iguanas

We stopped on a beach for another good discussion with our guide. The hike then continued but the pathway required steady footing on lava rocks. My right hip and leg were causing such pain I had found a cane on the boat and I really needed it. I decided to enjoy staying on the beach while the rest of the group hiked for an hour or so.

I Meandered on the Beach While My Companions Hiked Over the Lava Rocks

Looking at This Crab Shell I Knew What Crested This Beach

Crab on a Rock

Different or Just Immature

Buenas Dias

I can't remember if these birds were Galapagos finches or Galapagos mocking birds. They had no fear of me and we could sit side by side.

Birds Can Tell I Have Fresh Water In My Pack

I poured water into a slight depression in a rock. It was interesting to see how quickly they drained the little bowl.

Enjoying the Freshwater

A 3rd Bird Wants a Drink

3 Creates Squabbles

There were several mother and baby seals on the beach. The rule is to stay 6 feet away from them to avoid causing any alarm or introducing any human germs.

Beach Is a Rookery

Feel the Sun

Content Mother and Baby

After a Sand Bath

The iguanas started to get too warm and knew it was time to eat.

Iguanuas Start to Awaken

Iguanas Start to Move

Some Head Up the Hill to A Different Beach

Ready to Enter

Iguanas Spend the Day Feeding in the Bay

I didn't mind staying 6 feet away from these guys. Although they are completely harmless, I don't like to be near them.
By now, the group returned from scrambling over lava rocks. They reported they really didn't see anything different than I saw on the beach - just in a different spot. Maybe a few more frigates.
As we headed to the dinghy, the two little birds saw I was leaving and hovered over my shoulder asking for some more fresh water. I found a rock with a depression and gave them the remainder of the water in my bottle.

It Took 2 Crew Members to Get Me In and Out of the Dinghy

After lunch, they went kayaking. I chose to stay on board and enjoy the hot tub and give my hip and leg respite from climbing in and out of the dinghy and into kayaks.

There Go the Kayakers

Refreshments After Each Excursion

After the kayaking, the rest of the group boarded the dinghies again to visit the beautiful white sand beach. Once again, I stayed on board to spare my hip the pain of straddling the side of the dinghy for a "wet landing." (BTW, a trip to the MD has resulted in a diagnosis of bursitis and sciatica that has now improved.)
I could see the beach from afar on the yacht. It was beautiful.

The next day we woke to see Puerto Aroya the main town on Santa Cruz Island.

Puerto Ayora in the Morning

Other Boats in the Bay

My cruise ended on this day. Two other couples also signed up for only the 4-day cruise, but the remainder were staying on to continue the 9-day cruise - more days of snorkeling and seeing seals and iguanas but on different islands.

Helpful Crew with Grand Majestic in the Background

The day's events entailed several hours on a bus.

My Only Excursion Today

As we neared El Chato, I began counting the land turtles I saw it the fields. My Spanish number knowledge was insufficient and my fellow travelers grew weary of my count.

Too Many to Count

We were told the owners of the property started out as a dairy farm. When they realized the number of tortoises that inhabited their land and the lava caves, they realized it was probably more lucrative to run a nature preserve and host tourists.

Private Conservation Center

See You Later Paula

As I was still having difficulty walking, I stayed behind while my cruisemates took a guided tour through the preserve.

My Cruisemates Went on a Walking Tour

There was plenty for me to observe from the deck.

Come On, Let's Get Out of the Bath

We've Got Work To Do

Former Residents

Chubby Tourists All Needed to Prove They Could Crawl in the Shell

After the walking tour, we loaded on the bus. Five of us got off at the airport on Balta Island. The remainder met some others at the airport and continued with the cruise.

For some reason, it has taken me more days to collect these thoughts and compile these photos than I spent on the Galapagos.

As fond of Cotacachi as I am, it is time for me to leave. I fly out early in the morning of December 1, 2021 so I am staying at the Wyndham Airport Hotel tonight. It is only a $2 ride to the airport, although one taxi charged me $5!

Wyndham's Style of Peruvian Ceviche

Some Very Nice Soup

A Nice Room with Good Internet for Teaching on Zoom

Another reason for arriving soon - I am now required to show a negative PCR within 72 hours of arriving at either the airport on San Cristobol or Santa Cruz Islands. Diana Endara of The Galapagos Travel Center arranged for a lab rep to come to my hotel. I was tested and had the results via email in a few hours. Be sure and use Diana and this link for travel in the Galapagos. They are based in Quito and are more familiar with everything than any travel center based in the US. They communicate in many languages.

Guess what?! It doesn't take 3 days to get a reading on the test - it is the good old USA that tries to complete it in that time to allow for transport to the lab, testing, data entry, etc. I do know that some folks who needed to get home from the US were able to get results within 48 hours for $300 per test.

Galapagos Here I Come

Galapagos Here I Am

Airport Public Art

It seems that everyone wants to visit The Galapagos. We have all heard about it, Darwin, the evolution of species - but many of us are really confused about what to expect and actually what has happened here.

Even the Police Are Confused about the Local Contribution

No, they aren't confused! As usual, I was. I just checked Google Translate and it as World Heritage. Initially, I translated it as meaning it was the place of world heritage but of course, it tells us The Galapagos are a Unesco World Heritage Site.

According to Google Maps, The Cattleya Hostal was an easy walk from the airport so I said "No, gracias" to every taxi driver.

Interesting Flora

Near the Equator But Not Tropical

Paved Street Ends at the Airport

Perhaps the rather bumpy walk put me in a bad mood. Not even the friendly drunks who assured me I was on the right path did not make me happy when I arrived.

I Was Not Happy with My Assigned Room

Staring at a Blank Wall

This is not what I saw when I looked out my window; this is what I felt like. I was literally staring at a blank wall.
When I told the owner I could not stay in this room that looked out on a blank wall, she assured me she could relocate me to a better room in the morning.
I decided to talk a walk around Puerto Baquerizo Moreno the capital city of Galapagos province and get myself in a better mood.

A Sea Lion Can Rest Where a Sea Lion Wants to Rest

They Sit Like This for Hours

I Didn't Go Up and Join the Cat

Along the Malacon

Common Local Transport

Crabs, Crabs Everywhere Craba

Plantings Add Color

San Cristobal Is Ready for Christmas

Darwin Displayed Everywhere

I Saw Only One of These

Grilled Tuna A Bit Dry

I Was Relieved to Learn This Was Not the Ferry

By the way, you can take day trips to other islands using the ferry. The dinghies above transport you to the ferry from the dock. The ride is quite bumpy and takes at least two hours. On Day 1, I was thinking I might take a trip on Day 3 or 4.

I returned to the Cattleya very refreshed and anticipating an improved attitude in the AM.
As promised in the reviews, the rooftop terrace of the hostal is absolutely stunning and offers views of the town and the port.

The Eastern Sky from the Terrace

One Fourth of Stairs Required to Climb Several Times A Day

The next morning at breakfast on the terrace, I spent time talking with a US couple who excited me about their visit to the Interpretation Center, a taxi tour of the island, the many restaurants, and seeing blue-footed boobies on the shore a block away.
For some reason that I don't recall now, I did none of this on Day 2. Perhaps I merely enjoyed the terrace, my new room and common area, and visited local shops and restaurants. I probably spent time reading online sites like this.

I Was Happier in My Reassigned Room

On my third day, I had breakfast with a young couple from Switzerland who had booked a taxi for a tour of the island. They were happy to split the $120 three ways.
If I had it to do over, I would have hired a private or small group guide. A taxi driver is NOT allowed to be a guide. Only those who have been trained and certified are allowed to tell about the islands or enter the specific sites with tourists; they must also live on the island. The taxi driver merely drives and drops you off at the gate. My taxi driver spoke about as much English as I do Spanish. As he drove along, he would speak rapidly and at length; of course, I understood about 1 word in every 100. The couple was fluent in Spanish. When the driver paused, I often asked them to translate. Perhaps they did not understand as much as they spoke or perhaps they did not relish translating, all I know is that I would receive a 2 sentence recap and none unless I specifically asked them.
Also, it was raining.
Our first stop about 1/2 hour out of town was the turtle hatchery.

I Visit the Land Turtle Hatchery

Easy Path to Navigate

Without a guide, you could only look around and wonder about the details of what you were seeing, After walking for about 15 minutes, I overheard a guide speaking excellent English to an American couple. I asked if I could listen in as I had misunderstood and merely bought the taxi tour.

Resting in the Spa

Turtle Always Has the Right of Way

They Sure Look Mean

Turtle Always Has the Right of Way

San Cristobal Land Turtle

Young Land Turtles

At the nursery, I met up with the young couple with whom I was sharing a taxi. Not wanting to delay them to the next stop, I thanked the guide and couple for sharing and completed the walk through the Hatchery.

By the way, I learned from the guide that in Spanish - at least in Ecuador- they use only the words Land Turtle or Sea Turtle (tortuga terrestre or
tortuga marina). So, we would call this a tortoise but here these are land turtles. However, on the web when I researched the islands these were definitely called tortoises!?!

How Many Varities

Another Interesting Cactus

A Wee Bit of Yellow

The next stop was a beach. I can't even remember the name but I don't think it is that important. It seems to be the only out-of-town beach that is reachable by land vehicle and is on all San Cristobal island tours. I encountered the American couple and English-speaking guide again so I hung out with them a bit to gain more info.

Sea Lions Have the Right of Way

There seemed to be a bit of disagreement between guides. The one I was with thought it best to encourage the seal to move off the trail; the guide assigned to the beach encouraged visitors to clamber over the lava rocks and let irritated sea lions lie.

Sea Lions Share Their Beach

These Might Be Pregnant

I Wanted a Photo But the Cold Water Surprised Me

This Pup Was Skinnier Than a Street Dog

The guide told us that after birth the mother must go back out to sea and feed. She might be gone as long as two weeks. The baby will lie where it was born and wait for her to return. Obviously, the baby loses weight; I hope this one does not starve nor suffer from a lack of shade.
More about these newborn sea lions later

The third stop was a walk in the rain up the side of a mountain to look at the only freshwater lagoon in the Galapagos. I decided to skip this walk
as it was on my cruise itinerary in two days. Everyone was sure I was confused because you could not cruise to this lagoon, but I was sure they did land excursions also. For an additional $15, the taxi driver returned me to the hostal while my companions walked up the mountain in the rain and the mist. I learned later they were in a cloud the entire time and could see ahead only a few feet and did not get a view of the lagoon or the sky.
I spent $55 to discover the elephant seals on the beach north of Cambria, California are a more overwhelming natural sight than the sea lions of San Cristobal and seeing sea turtle hatchlings make their way to the Atlantic at midnight on a North Carolina beach was definitely worth more than the land turtle hatchery - and that was free.
But I was glad to give this taxi driver a day's wage and let him practice English. Although, I wish he would have wanted to practice something different than to ask if I was married, why not, why did I travel alone. I know he was just a young, interested, family man Ecuadorian -but jeez!

As I recall, this was the evening I picked up a pizza and a bottle of wine and spent the remainder of Day 3 reading on the terrace or the common room.

There is No Postal Service in Ecuador

I had heard the only place you could mail a postcard in Ecuador was in the Galapagos. I thought this must be the place but I could never find it open. Finally, on my last day, I asked at the visitor center and was told it was permanently closed. Not sure what I will do with the 8 postcards I purchased.
More later on the one way you can get a postcard delivered to your friends and family.

I have my Aha! Moment on the fourth day.
After another delicious breakfast on the rooftop terrace served by the owner Ivan, I anticipated facing the day anew with a walk along the bay to the Interpretation Center.
I gained a whole new appreciation for the town this morning. Last evening I knew Papa Noel came to town with all sorts of family activities. Today was crammed with more family and outdoor activities including age-specific triathlons.

Triathalon Participant

Larger Than Life

Here You Learn Darwin Was in GI for about 6 Weeks

Many folks will still insist Darwin spent 5 years in the Galapagos - much of his time studying the finches. No! The Beagle spent 5 years circling the world, but only a few weeks in the Galapagos. Although he spent a few hours on several islands, he camped for several days on only one island - just now I forget which island.

Playa

This side of the bay is the high-dollar area.

The walk goes through town around the bay. The Interpretation Center is well worth the visit.

Definitely Go Here

Interpretation Center

I, of course, read every posting at every display. That was when I realized more about the actual importance of Darwin's visit here. Although many credit Darwin with the theory of evolution, his grandfather actually spoke to him about the fallacy of creationism. It was on the Galapagos where he had his Aha! moment because he could see the differences in the island's species that showed they had adapted to the unique habitat of the islands. I also said "Aha!" aloud. I think I had imagined the Galapagos as a veritable Noah's Ark with many different species. Instead, it is sea lions, turtles, iguanas, and a few birds - all of which have adapted from their distant cousins across the sea.

In Looking Out

Interpretation 1

Interpretation 2

Interpretation 3

You can take a very nice walk where there are frequent benches for resting and reading.

Walkway

Overlooking Town

Dystopian

This was the dry season. I am told during the wet season all these trees will bear green leaves. That must be a beautiful sight.

You Can Walk at Least 5 K

Always Green

Vista

Keep Walking

Why You Need a Raised Walkway

Some Green

Raised Pathways

The couple I shared the taxi with went snorkeling at one of these beaches. They said it was the best snorkeling experience they ever had because the young seals swam and cavorted with them.

Also Good Sea Views

1 of 2 Beaches Accessiblt

Supposedly Where Darwin Set Foot on SC, GI

Need A Lot of Bolls to Make Cloth

This plant is of the cotton family I learned later but is not cultivated nor spun.

This facility is associated with a university in Quito.

Semester on San C

Clever Art of Trash

No Single-Use Plastic

On this side of the bay near the "people's playa" and in front of some resorts and restaurants is the Sea Lion Rookery. The opposite side of the bay where I am staying is the bachelors' beach.

On the Rookery

This day there was a dead baby on the sand. It was covered in flies; periodically a sea lion (I assume it was the mother) tried to drag it to the incoming surf.

Sad to See

Mother Trying to Dispose of Dead Baby

As I stood there, three men came to the fence. Through Google Translate I was told this was survival of the fittest only. I am not sure if it was born dead or if the mother had swum out to feed and the baby could not wait that long without food.

Park Ranger Removes

Park Ranger Buries

Goofy Guides

I continued to stroll through town avoiding the sea lions who blocked the right of way.

Dozing

Guarding the Store

Interesting Flora

It's Not a Komodo Dragon

Not Many Iguanas in San Cristobal

You Won't Find Crab on the Menu

There are plenty of them around, but everything is protected. (I guess that is why.)

Where's the Coat of Arms

It was Friday night on the malacon.

A Version of Ceviche and Papas Fritas

Vendors Start to Set Up

Everyone Comes

Kids Find Candy

Getting Cash

Strolling Looking

Teenagers

Still Presentations Continue

Very Excellent Dinner

Yummy Pastel

Paula Heads Back to The Cattleya

Bachelor Beach on Friday Night

Blue-Footed Booby on Friday Night

Blue-Footed Booby

Disabled Are Bullied

I watched these sea lions for a while. The one knocked the other off the bench. The one pushed off the bench had an unusable flipper; he was determined to get back on the bench. It was painful to watch.

PXL_20211206_160032097

The owner of my hostal is the granddaughter of the woman who wrote this book. You can buy Floreana online and I recommend it to really understand the 20th century of the Islands. I hurried to read a copy she had on the shelf in the common room.

Tomorrow morning, December 6, 2021, it's time to board the boat for my next leg of discovering The Galapagos Islands.

Pat, the owner of Buddy, cooked some fine meals for me before she left for the US but I can't seem to locate any photos of all that prep and fine eating. She also introduced me to several of her friends and I readily invited myself to join in their traditional Thanksgiving potluck.
And a fine meal it was too! I think only good cooks become ex-pats in Cotacachi.

Starting to Get Seated

We Haven't Touched the Dessert Table Yet

The Buffet After We All Had Filled Our Plates Once

Finding a Seat

Photo Please

Host Dewey Is Rear Right

Our Hostess Is Rear Left

We All Filled Our Plaates...More Than Once

T'Giving Dinner with a Mountain View

Tres Gatos Mural

The Calderon family are good friends of Pat. They have also embraced me. Fernando drives our local taxi, Angie comes for English lessons, Sandra prepares some fine meals, and Fernandito provides lots of entertainment. It is a real treat for me to be invited to spend time in their home.

One Saturday Sandra invited me for a taco lunch. We prepared some special juice to serve with it.
Guanabana is one of the many fruits that are common in South and Central America, but I have never seen one in the US. I have read and been told that guanabana fruits are not very large - about the size of a softball.
Well, I have proof that is not always the case!

WOW

Step 1 in Making Guanabana Jugo

Blend the Seeded Pulp with Some Water

Look How Delicious

Fernandito Agrees

Our guanabana was so large we didn't have time to extract all the seeds from the pulp before it was time for lunch. Angie, Sandra, and I extracted the remainder of the pulp after the taco lunch.

All the Pulp Is Removed

Sandra sent me home with enough pulp to make a large pitcher of jugo for mi casa. When Delia came that week, we had some for breakfast.

I Make Guanabana Jugo for Delia

On my last weekend in Cotacachi, Sandra invited me to go to mass with them and have Sunday dinner with them afterward. I had been wanting to go to this church.

Wedding on Saturday

Waiting for the Calderons

Mass is held every hour all Sunday morning. I watched the filled church leave from the 10 AM mass and it was filled again for the 11 AM.

Hidalgo Stop After Mass

Sandra prepared another delicious fish soup with all the toppings they use - rice, toasted maize, popcorn, and a couple of hot sauces.

Sandra Serves a Fish Soup

Only the Photographer Waits While Sandra Washes Up the Cooking Dishes

Angie and Fernandito have been preparing for the holidays.

Owls Made from Small Strips of Folded Paper

It's a Long Wait for Papa Noel

Paula received a present from Papa Noel early!

A New Bolsa for Paula Made By Fernando

On both days that I went to the Calderon's for a meal, it was beautiful Cotacachi weather. None of the rain that descended almost daily and nightly. We were able to take nice walks.

A Beautiful Day

Fernando's brother lives on the same street and although it is in the town he has a large enough lot to raise a hutch or two of rabbits and about a dozen pens for pigs. This venture provides both an income and family food.

Cerda = Pig and Pork

Bunnies Are for Sale

On Sunday, we walked to the mercado so I could buy a whole roasting chicken.
We passed by Fernandito's school. He has finally returned to school after 1+ years of Zoom.

Fernandito Returns to Live Classroom

Photo Op in the Mercado

We returned to my (Pat's) where I offered only cooling water and chocolates.
I then said "Adios" to the Calderon family.

Beautiful Even When Sky Is Overcast

Ah

Ah Ah

Cotacachi lies between two mountains at an altitude higher than Denver.

Both times I have stayed here, I had no hot water for several days. There seemed to be trouble with the water heater, but due to my limited language skills and being an old lady the men were convinced I was just out of gas. Throughout Latin America, the gasmen start driving through the neighborhoods around 7 or 8 in the morning. They play recorded music so one knows it is the gasman. I am sure it is the same tune throughout Ecuador and Costa Rica. One gasman here in Cotacachi often uses a loud siren that sounds like a US firetruck.

The Gasmen Cometh

There They Go Playing That Tune

One week after I replaced two gas canisters, there was no hot water again. A gas canister should last for months. This time they finally resolved the problem as a faulty valve connecting the gas line.

The gringo farmer's market is held every Thursday morning. Only the gringos shop here and many of the vendors are ex-pats.

Snacks while Mama Cooks and Sells

Tortillas Hot Off the Gridle

Dinner Fixings after Mercado Visit

Special markets are held for special events.

Special Vendor Area for Dia del Morte

I learned where the mercado is for natives and indigenous and shopped there and at the small tiendas. Less expensive and just as organic although not as specialized.

Again this time, I volunteered to serve breakfast to the Kichwa elders.

Planning the Day's Fruit

Wild Blueberries Take a Lot of Cleaning

Cultivated Raspbberries

Some of the Elders Work in the Garden

Chatting After Breakfast

Last One Eating

Every few days or weeks, animals are led through town as they forage through the country.
This time, a much larger herd and flock traveled through the neighborhood. These are different animals than the few head of cattle that live locally and are tethered at a different spot each day.

Every Few Days the Herd Came through My Corner of Town

Carne or Fila

Thankful It Is for Carne

One day, I asked the shepherds if the flock was for fila or carne (yarn or meat). I was relieved it was for meat because I didn't want to think of anyone trying to get this fleece clean enough to spin - at least by hand!
Another day as I blithely wandered along the country road and Buddy sniffed his way through an open field, 10 snarling dogs ran up to us. Seems we had unknowingly come upon the goats and sheep we had seen in town the week before. As soon as we stopped and turned the dogs stopped charging, stayed their ground, but made sure their voices would keep us from approaching, I must admit that both Buddy's and my demeanor showed we understood who was boss of our field this day.

Everyone Plants and Nurseries Abount

Egrets Found This Puddle

Buenas Tardes, Colt

Tending to His Finca

Learning to Balance

Decent Work Without Violence

Gas and food prices have increased. I think the government sets the gasoline prices. As happened the last time I was in Costa Rica, the people strike to protest high prices. In Ecuador, it is called a paro and anyone who drives a taxi, truck, or bus refuses to work. The people also block the highways so no traffic can pass. In Costa Rica, the police guard the barricade so no violence erupts.

Paro That Did Not Happen

The strike was called one day, but it seemed there was not much participation. Word finally filtered down that President Lasso was out of the country and would not return for 2-3 weeks. The union leaders called off the strike because with the Prez gone there was no one to negotiate with. When he returned, the paro was not called for again. I am not sure if prices dropped or not.

I had my hair cut at Isabella y July's salon. Same place I had manicures and a pedicure.

Notice the Plastic Panel for Phone Viewing

This was the first place where I had seen a salon cape with a plastic insert so you could look at your phone while you had your hair cut!
I also went to the dentist because in Denver they have been suggesting for 10 years that I should have an old crown replaced. This dentist said there was nothing wrong with the crown but felt I needed four fillings. For $120, I decided maybe he was right even though I haven't been told I needed fillings for 40+ years.

I Decided to Go to the Dentist

I must admit I was nervous because of the language barrier. Seems the only English words he could say were Open, Close, and Please. Among the few Spanish words I know are Abierto, Cerrado, and Por Favor. Seems we should have just used our native tongues and Google Translate.

Room for More Gringos

These condos are being built across the street from where I was staying with Buddy. Another was just completed a short walk around the corner. Along the country road where Buddy and I walk it appears that more are going up behind walls and utilities are being installed. If I ever return, I am sure the ex-pat residents will have increased to more than the 1/4 of the population they are currently.

Amo Buddy y Buddy me ama.

Give Paula a Kiss

If there is anything that is a repetition of my last visit to Ecuador, it is my life with Buddy. Here are our walks from six months ago. Reminisce and look for any differences! However, Buddy's new schooling is responsible for some big differences!

Buddy Shows Them How It Is Done

Oscar Is Buddy's Favorite Human

He also is quite fond of Oscar's brother Isaac.

Off for the Morning with Oscar, Issac, and 4 Perros

Three days a week, Buddy spends the mornings walking and being trained. I have definitely witnessed the difference in his behavior. He walks with much less pulling and responds (usually!!) when I say, "Come!"

Came When Called.......This Time

He is also less likely to confront other dogs when he is on the lead.

Buena Dia Buddy

Please Let Buddy Off the Lead

Now We Can Play

I let him off the lead so he can race through the field with his neighborhood friends every day.
His babies are kept in the closet as Oscar doesn't seem to approve. I let him play with one every few days.

Now That He Is Trained Doesn't Get to Play with Babies Often

Still Doesn't Like to Give

One day, I tried to tempt him with raw vegetables.

What Does Paula Think I Can Do with a Green Pepper

Green Pepper Green Bean What To Do

I Know What To Do with This Bone I Found

We still take one walk on "Oscar/Isaac days" and two on the other four days. I have looked for differences in our 2-3 mile walk.

Walk Along the Dirt Road Is Still Best

We Charted the Growth of This Cornfield in the Spring

One Day the Cornpicker Arrived

Corn Might Be Picked But the Ditch Is Still Worth Exploring

First Time We Have Seen These

And Then We Saw Them Every Day

Keeping the Field Mown

Fallow Field for Cattle Grazing in the Spring Now Newly Planted Corn

Definitely a Family Field

I Never Get Tired of Meeting the Vacas

Cattle Have Moved Here Some Days

We Walk the Same Roads

Even though Buddy is learning good behaviors, he is still tempted by water and puddles of any size. With the almost daily rain, the sandy country roads have some very tempting depressions. The road crew has tried to correct the biggest trouble spot. They installed a drain since my last visit. Unfortunately, the drain is higher than the road.

Barricade

Because this road is a popular shortcut that avoids going through town. Folks just drove up and over the sidewalk until they dumped a load of dirt.

Dirtpile Prevents Passage on This Side

One day I watched a truck decide they would not be thwarted by this root in the road.

Big Truck Pushed the Barricade Aside

Barricade Removed

Finally, they just removed the barricade and tried to grade the road so the drain was slightly more in line with it.

Buddy runs through fields and smells the same hundreds of spots. I entertain myself by looking for other differences.

This Former Puddle Hole Has Been Filled

They Dogproofed This Trash Receptacle

We Watched This Gateway Being Built in the Spring

Life around the house is still the same.

Waiting for Food to Fall

Bird on the Wrong Side of the Window

Buddy Was Concerned

Makes Full Use of the Bed Til After Toothbrushing

Then I say, "Move to your side of the bed, Buddy."
And to all a good night.